Wednesday, April 26, 2017

One Night in Sri Lanka

April Something, 2017
Yesterday, in Dambulla, I had a wonderful authentic dinner. One of the long-time hostel guests invited everyone to a dinner made by one of the hostel's tuk-tuk drivers. He picked up three people and drove off, saying he'd be back in 10-15 minutes. While we waited we swapped stories in the heat of the evening. The tuk-tuk driver came back for the rest of us, four total, and I got to ride in the front seat!
We drove on the main road for a bit then turned off onto a narrower road. We started getting further and further away from the lights of Dambulla. We'd been in the tuk-tuk for so long (in terms of tuk-tuk standards), every time we drove by a house I thought this would be the place. At some point, we turned onto a dirt road lit only by the headlight of the tuk-tuk. Both sides of the road were overrun with plants blowing in the wind. Eventually, we pulled up to a house all on its lonesome. Our keen tuk-tuk driver led us through his fruit trees to a grass hut on the back of his property. The other three were there drinking water and big brown bottles of Lion beer. The four of us ordered beers as well and joined the party. Our tuk-tuk driver, now host, tells us the set menu and offers some speakers to play music on (after the data of one phone floundered I played AM - it was the wrong album I'd say). He came back after a few minutes and came out with a basket of fried curry leaves and chips. While we waited for dinner, there was a beetle that fell through the roof at least 3 times, which entertained us and prolonged the small talk. It's weird how strangers can continuously talk and then it dries up, eh?
Once the food was brought out. people took out their cameras, and phones and snapped away before eating. There was salmon curry, lady finger curry, two fresh salads, dahl curry, bean curry, polos and kol sambol with rice underneath. Everything was spot on. Most people went up for seconds, and I even ordered another beer.
This guy who hosted, his goal is to convert the place into a homestay. I hope it works out for him, he's such a good guy.
Back to the evening-- as I emptied my second bottle of beer I started to yawn as did others and our host drove the first set of people home. Me and the other two lay-dees left behind knew we were in for a wait. Recalling back to what our host had said during the introduction to the meal, we decided to walk further down the property towards the ravine. One girl pulled out her phone and flashed her torch towards the other side of the river. Then, fireflies in an old tree started to light up. Ideally, there'd be a bench to sit on (especially after gorging on Sri Lankan food) and watch one of nature's marvels flicker in the dark of the tree (the sky was actually quite light). We stood and watched the tree light up until we heard the engine of our ride home.
When we had got up our host had returned with fireworks. He lit them and threw them high over a field of beans. The fireworks were disappointing, just loud, but he picked a bean out of the garden and gave it to me. I had never had a raw bean before that was sweet, it blew my mind. While I was savouring the bean, he handed me a wood apple I think he called it, then a small green star fruit which was a very unique taste. Regardless, the meal included ingredients from his home garden and that's one of my favourite things about this place. Live off the land: it's the best way to eat.  

 

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